It was funny at the time.

"There's four of us, plus luggage," I said, "so we'll need a big car.  An SUV, like a Bolero or a Scorpio."
"Okayokaynoproblem, tomorrow, ninethirty, big car from farmhouse to Mamallapuram."
The next day we woke up at the farmhouse in the countryside an hour's drive from Chennai where Roopa's family had housed us for her wedding.  It poured rain.  I sat on the porch, watched the puddles grow and tried to learn some Tamil from the woman who had slept on a cot on the porch, watching the house and taking care of it.  She spoke no English, so it was quite fruitless, but I learned that "Chair" was "Tchair" and "Tani" was rain.  At 9:30, the rain stopped.  At 9:45, the car pulled up.  It was a Tata Indigo, the ubiquitous five-seat midsize Indian sedan.
"This is a small car, it won't carry us"
"Qualis problem." Said the driver.
"What is a Qualis?" I asked
"Yeh Yeh, Qualis."
"So there's a Qualis problem?"
"Yes, yes, problem Qualis."
"But what's a Qualis? Where's the SUV?"
"No no Qualis."

"Well guys, it seems there's a Qualis problem," I told the group.
"What's a Qualis?"
"We'll find out, I guess.  Maybe it's something on the road, like flooding from the rain"
"Or a protest"
"Or a landslide."
"There's supposed to be a wild elephant somewhere in India that's attacking cars"
We got into the Indigo with three small ladies, one extra large dude, three extra large backpack and one ginormous rolling suitcase.  It was cramped in the back, but I had shotgun, so that didn't really matter.  We got rolling, on the lookout for bandits, landmines, man-eating tigers and other potential Qualises.  Half an hour later, we pulled up behind a green SUV I didn't recognize.  I read the name plate.
"Is that a...
....Toyota Qualis?!"
"Yes, yes, Qualis, Qualis problem, problem engine Qualis," said the driver.
"Oooooh, there was a problem with the Qualis? With it's engine?"
"yes yes yes."
We cracked up.  For the rest of the trip, any problem was a Qualis.  The Internet cafes being closed on a Sunday when Adrian needed to figure out her next move was a Qualis.  The roach the size of my fist in the bedroom of the houseboat was a small Qualis I quietly resolved before before Sofya could see it and turn it into a major Qualis.  The mysterious holes that appeared on the soles of Andrea's feet were a small Qualis.
"Maybe they're polio?" she asked "What's yer Qualis? P-p-p-polio worms?" 

What I have learned

I'm in India now taking a two and a half week break from Armenia, writing this at an internet cafe in Chennai where I'm going to a friend's wedding.  Traveling through India has given me a chance to reflect on what I've learned in the last year and a half in Armenia.  Although the countries are vastly different, many of the ways of life are similar.

I've learned to pack the clothes I'll need for three weeks worth of relaxed and dressy occasions in climates freezing and tropical.  Then I've learned how to repack that backpack into an effective daypack.  I've learned which combination of flashlights, multitools, cell phone chargers, water purification tabs, medicines, toiletries, heatpacks and towels will be most useful and minimal in weight.

I've learned how to find a good prepaid SIM card with a data plan in a foreign country (Go to a guy on the street, not an official phone store.  Stick with him until everything works.)

I've learned to be a pretty fair shake a negotiating prices, and have evolved excellent technique at taking taxis.  (Find out what the fare should be from a local, don't negotiate beforehand, when you arrive, step out of the taxi and pay the correct fare.  If possible, get a local to give the taxi driver directions.)

I've learned what to rely on locals for, and what not to rely on them for.  Many of the things they believe impossible are merely uncomfortable or unusual. 

I've learned to find local transport routes, food and places to shop.

I've learned to conduct conversations necessary to transfer information without either of the parties speaking the same language.

I've developed sang froid for traffic near-misses that used to stop my heart when riding in buses.  I've developed an apostolic compulsion for wearing seatbelts in taxis.  (See October 2010)

I've learned when that situations requiring direct, forceful action are rare.  Far more common are situations where waiting and watching are required.  Standing around munching on the local munching nut (sunflower seeds, pomegranates, betel) can often yield excellent results. When direct, forceful action is required, I've learned to be direct and forceful.